Faroe Islands 2019 Tour
I thoroughly enjoyed every aspect of the trip: the hikes, camaraderie, heimablidnis, Bindifest, sheep on the hillsides, excursions (especially the spontaneous ones!)....When people ask me how was my trip, I simply reply, 'Magical". Great job to you both! Diana Z. April 2019
I didn't have any favorite activities since I loved it all. Every activity contributed to a wonderful traveling experience! Louise A. April 2019
I didn't have any favorite activities since I loved it all. Every activity contributed to a wonderful traveling experience! Louise A. April 2019
DAY 1 - FRIDAY, APRIL 12, 2019 - ARRIVAL IN RUNAVIK
Today, after a brief layover in Copenhagen (it was snowing!), we arrived at the Vagar Airport in the beautiful Faroe Islands after a rather stunning landing.
Our first stop was at the Cafe Zorva in Sorvagur for a wonderful home cooked meal of fresh cod. After lunch we left Vagar Island and headed to Streymoy Island, traveling through one under-water tunnel, one under-mountain tunnel, and then over the only bridge that crosses the Atlantic to the Island of Eysturoy.
Once there we had a special treat at A Graasteini, a lovely cultural, historical place where we heard tales about this part of the island from Alfred in Faroese, his son interpreting, and were treated to local delicacies including Skerrpikjot, a type of mutton which is hung in a hjallur or drying shed for 5-9 months where it ages. It is unique to the Faroe Islands and is the only place where mutton can be preserved in this manner without requiring cooking before eating. Then on to Runavik to settle in for the next 3 nights at the Hotel Runavik, - with a little time to explore the town and stroll around the lake, we finished off the afternoon with a lovely group dinner at the Restaurant Matstovan. Tomorrow - off to the Bindifest!
DAY 2 - SATURDAY, APRIL 13, 2019 BINDIFESTUVALUR KNITTING FESTIVAL AND EXPLORE FUGLAFJORDUR
Today we headed out to the Bindifestuvalur Knitting Festival in Fuglarfjordur. Folks went off to classes held in residents' homes, or out for guided hikes. We visited 'pop-up' shops, local exhibits, had a wonderful lunch sponsored by the festival, and had a great time meeting folks and making new friends from around the globe!
Today we headed out to the Bindifestuvalur Knitting Festival in Fuglarfjordur. Folks went off to classes held in residents' homes, or out for guided hikes. We visited 'pop-up' shops, local exhibits, had a wonderful lunch sponsored by the festival, and had a great time meeting folks and making new friends from around the globe!
Marci and Amy learned the old Viking method of making wool fabric called nailbinding from our lovely teacher Andrea Tebbenhoff from Norway. The class was held in a lovely local woman's home overlooking the ocean--so beautiful!
Some folks spent the afternoon hiking around the mountains. We then finished off the day with a guided tour around town with a local historian who shared many wonderful stories with us - and then back to Runavik for dinner and a little relaxation.
VIEW OF FUGLAFJORDUR
DAY 3 - SUNDAY, APRIL 14, 2019 - HIKE FROM LAMBA TO RITUVIK
Today was one adventure after another! The day started out with a tour around Runavik, while actually trying to find a trailhead.
That tired us out, so we went to Lena's home for a wonderful heimablidni--- heimablidni translates as 'home hospitality' in which traditional Faroese food (often not found in the restaurants) is served in a local home. Oh, the food was marvelous, and much of it was local. And what a beautiful home!
And then after more searching for the trailhead, and touring the local quarry, we hiked from Lamba to Rituvik - what lovely sites! At the end of the trail, we actually found the trailhead we had been looking for! The sites were marvelous and the winds were strong.
We then headed back to Runavik for yet another hike which gave us beautiful views of Runavik. Then a lovely group dinner at the hotel, and off to bed.
VIEWS ALONG THE WAY FROM LAMBA TO RITUVIK
Traffic on the road in Rituvik
DAY 4 - MONDAY, APRIL 15, 2019 - EXPLORE KALSOY
Today was certainly a busy day! We left early in the morning to catch the ferry from Klaksvik on the island of Bordoy to the island of Kalsoy.
We were met there by our local guide Jo, who toured us through the 4 villages on Kalsoy - Husa, Mykladalur where we saw the seal woman and had a lovely heimablidni lunch, Trollanes, Jo's village where we visited his sheep farm and smithy, and Sydradalur - population, 4. What an experience!
ONE LANE UNDER THE MOUNTAIN TUNNEL IN KALSOY
We had to travel through single lane under-mountain tunnels to get from village to village. You felt like you were in a coal mine, but once out, the views were spectacular!
VIEW AT MYKLADALUR
Back in Klaksvik, we had coffee and cake at Frida's and heard tales of Nolsoy Pall. From there we went to Aeduvik for a wonderful heimablidni dinner at Hanusarstova with John and Harriet.
And then a visit to the Navia Yarn shop and sheep house in Toftir with owner Kris for a private shopping spree - what a lovely way to end the day!
DAY 5 - TUESDAY, APRIL 16, 2019 - EIDUVIK, TJORNUVIK, TORSHAVN
Today we said farewell to Runakvik and the island of Eysturoy as we headed to Torshavn on the island of Streymoy. Here we spent the next 4 nights. The morning started with high wind warnings, and instead of heading to the sea cliffs at Gjogv, we instead headed to the charming village of Elduvik, where we met locals and explored town.
Today we said farewell to Runakvik and the island of Eysturoy as we headed to Torshavn on the island of Streymoy. Here we spent the next 4 nights. The morning started with high wind warnings, and instead of heading to the sea cliffs at Gjogv, we instead headed to the charming village of Elduvik, where we met locals and explored town.
ROAD TO TJORNUVIK
Then on to Tjornuvik, one of the oldest villages in the Faroe Islands, where a Viking burial site was found in the 1950s. Destroyed a couple of times by avalanches (and on the drive we could see why), its population is currently around 70. And it is charming!
Then on to the beautiful village of Saksun for a tour of the Duvugardar Farm Museum. The farmhouse, 300 years old in some parts, was occupied until the end of WWII. We toured the roykstova (main room and all-purpose kitchen), the glasstova (parlor and sleeping quarters) and the prestastova (priest's room). The farm was full of old implements that would have been used in daily life, including lots of spinning and knitting equipment, with the walking wheel mounted on the wall. From there we walked up the hill and had a lovely lunch at the new farm on the hill.
Then to Torshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands, where we spent the next 4 nights. We ended the day with our guide Per who toured us through the old town and shopping district (oh, all the knit garments!), some champagne and cake and then off to bed!
DAY 6 - WEDNESDAY, APRIL 17, 2019 - EXPLORE NOLSOY Today we took the commuter ferry to the Island of Nolsoy with our wonderful guide Per. The island's most famous inhabitant was Ove Joensen, who single-handedly sailed from Nolsoy to the Little Mermaid statue in Copenhagen in 1986 - he died just a year later, but we had a sighting of his brother at the local market while we were yarn shopping! The island is also known for the bird life - while exploring the island, we saw gannets, fulmars, and learned about the Storm Petrals that nest here.
FERRY RIDE TO NOLSOY
After exploring the island, we enjoyed a lovely lunch of cod steamed in parchment with potatoes, rhubarb and waffles at Gimburlombini - and they had the best coffee!
Notice the sheep wool used for insulation!
Then back to Torshavn for a fun afternoon of shopping - of particular interest were the art galleries, a traditional dress shop, the local music and book store, Gudrun and Gudrun knitting shop and the Snaeldon knitting shop.
Then back to Torshavn for a fun afternoon of shopping - of particular interest were the art galleries, a traditional dress shop, the local music and book store, Gudrun and Gudrun knitting shop and the Snaeldon knitting shop.
And then the highlight of the trip for a few of our adventurers - 18 course dinner at the 2 Michelin star, most remote foodie destination in the world - Koks!
The focus at Koks is on creating innovative traditional Faroese food using Faroese produce with the ancient methods of drying, fermenting, salting and smoking. Folks drive, and fly, from all over the world to sample their food. Our journey was fairly simple - a cab from Torshavn, then a land rover across the beach and through the wilderness to the lovely turf-roofed buildings that house the restaurant. What lovely folks, wonderful food, and great hospitality, truly an amazing experience and a night to remember!
LAND ROVER RIDE TO KOKS
DAY 7 - THURSDAY, APRIL 18, 2019 - VISIT TO SANDOY
Today we took the ferry from Gamlaraett on the island of Streymoy to Skopun on the island of Sandoy - and what wonderful fun we had!
DRIVE FROM HUSAVIK TO DALUR ON THE ISLAND OF SANDOY
AND AROUND THE TOWERING HEADLAND OF KINNARTANGI...
Our first stop was in the lovely town of Dalur. While there, we met the church organist who was just getting ready for a service and invited us in for some music and singing - our singing may not have been up to snuff, but what a wonderful sharing experience!
SING-ALONG AT THE CHURCH IN DALUR, SANDOY
On our way out of town we found a woman sitting outside her home in the sun - knitting! So we stopped for yet another visit, and other locals came out to join the fun. The woman's mother, who knit the signs we had seen coming into town, came out to visit and interpret them for us - what a lovely folks!
Then on to Listasavnid a Sandi (art musum of Sofus Olsen) in the village of Sandur where we met Frida who toured us through the gallery and then took us to the local cafe, Cafe Breidateig, which opened special for us - more wonderful food!
We dropped Frida off at home where we met her family. Then back to Skopun to catch the ferry to Gamlaraet back on the island of Streymoy.
On our way back, we stopped at Kirkjubour for a brief visit. First inhabited by Irish hermits around 800 AD and later by Norwegian Vikings, this is where Gudmundur, the first Faroese bishop, ruled and owned most of the Faroe Islands in around 1100. Today it boasts the oldest farmhouse, Roykstovan, which is still in use, the parish church Olavskirkjan, also still in use, and the medieval Magnus Cathedral ruins, built around 1300 from locally quarried stone and seat of power for several centuries.
Then back to Torshavn for dinner, and then a walk around the harbor to watch the Norrona leave for Denmark - another wonderful day!
THE NORRONA LEAVES FOR DENMARK
DAY 8 - FRIDAY, APRIL 19, 2019 - VESTMANNA BIRD CLIFFS, HORSEBACK RIDING IN TORSHAVN Well, today was truly an adventure! After an early morning stroll, we headed out to the Vestmannabjorgini - the Vestmanna bird cliffs. Wow. None of us had experienced a boat ride like this! Incredible, exciting, unexpected, beautiful....truly more adventure than bird watching, although we did see fulmars, guillemots and a few puffins. But drop those binoculars and hold on tight for the wet speed boat ride back to the harbor! The weather couldn't have been better!
BEAUTIFUL WATERFALL
WE AREN'T REALLY GOING IN THERE....?!
We had a lovely lunch at the tourist center, and then the highlight of the whole tour (for Marci anyway) - horseback riding on Icelandic horses. Wow! Several of us rode a trail overlooking the city of Torshavn, a beautiful sunny day, and we learned how to tolt - what a great ride!! Marci and Meredith were neck and neck in the lead....what fun! Those who didn't go horseback riding visited the National Museum and the Art Museum, as well.
After their ride, the riders also had a lovely visit to the National Museum, a delightful museum covering the natural and cultural history of the Faroe Islands including textiles, fishing, and farming. Its most famous exhibit is the medieval pew ends from Olavskirkjan at Kirkjubour.
Then back to the hotel for dinner and a late afternoon tour of Torshavn with our wonderful driver Kim...Oh, we are just so sad to leave...we love it here and would love to stay longer!! Cheers to all the wonderful folks we have met and the experiences we have had here in the Faroe Islands.
DAY 9 - SATURDAY, APRIL 20, 2019 - DEPARTURE TO COPENHAGEN, MULAFOSSUR WATERFALL
Our last day in Faroe, we are all very sad to leave, some of us did not expect to enjoy it so much! The morning started out with an early morning stroll and last minute shopping.
From there we got on the bus and headed to Gasadalur, which was the last community in Faroe to finally be accessible by an under-mountain road in 2003. This is where the Dalur River ends - as the amazing Mulafossur Waterfall. Wow!
MARCI'S NEW BEST FRIEND...
Then a lovely fresh salmon lunch at the Cafe Fjordoy in Sorvagur where our host entertained us with local tales of life during WWII - British troups occupied the island of Vagar and built many stone walls here for entertainment - the 'end of the wall' marking 'the end of the war' being just outside the door.
And then a sad goodbye to our driver Kim at the Vagar Airport as we headed back to Copenhagen for an overnight at the Bella Sky Hotel....falling asleep while viewing the full moon from our hotel window, dreaming of Faroe...
I had a wonderful trip - the companionship, the festival, the food, the scenery were amazing!
Kathleen C. April 2019
What a wonderful trip...I had a terrific time, loved the hiking, the food, the birdwatching...I enjoyed the knitting festival and spending time with the locals...your thoughtful preparation paid off! Louise A. April 2019
Kathleen C. April 2019
What a wonderful trip...I had a terrific time, loved the hiking, the food, the birdwatching...I enjoyed the knitting festival and spending time with the locals...your thoughtful preparation paid off! Louise A. April 2019
COPENHAGEN EXTENSION
DAY 10 - EASTER SUNDAY, APRIL 21, 2019 - Although the tour officially ended after breakfast, some folks decided to stay on in Copenhagen for their own personal adventure, including Marci and Amy.
CHURCH BELLS EASTER MORNING
Some of us started out the day attending Easter Services at various churches in Copenhagen. Marci and Meredith couldn't get into Vor Frelsers Kirk, so instead, they climbed to the top of the steeple for spectacular views of Copenhagen! They were able to hear the choir singing on their way down the tower.
A QUICK STOP AT AMALIENBORG SLOT TO SEE THE CHANGING OF THE GUARD.
THE BUS TOUR OF COPENHAGEN WITH A STOP AT TIVOLI GARDENS.
And then dinner at the lovely Salt Restaurant in our new hotel, the Copenhagen Admiral Hotel. I think that is enough for one day!
DAY 11 - MONDAY, APRIL 22, 2019 - Today was a special day indeed - we made a new friend, the wonderful Joanie Boesen, who was initially from America but has now lived in Copenhagen for 50 years - she toured us around town and was a delight to spend time with!
We started our tour in the King's Garden at Rosenborg Slot, built 400 years ago by Christian IV - home to the crown jewels and the restored Christian V tapestries woven in 1685-93 and hanging in the Knights' Hall. But we had a very special treat - all seven of the coronation rugs form the 17th century were out and on display for Easter, and this is the last year that they will come out for the holiday! The most important rug (above), originates from the fabled Isfahan and is woven with gold threads and decorated with twelve nuances of silk yearn. The other rugs are partially knotted and partially embroidered. Amazing!!
Then back to Amalienborg Slot, residence of the Danish Royal family, for an inside tour.
Then a walk around the corner to Frederik's Church or Marmorkirken (marble church), which has one of the largest domes in the Denmark! |
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THEN A QUICK RIDE ON THE BOAT CANAL...
And then a subway ride to the Copenhagen Zoo - What fun!
HAPPY PANDA NOT SO HAPPY PANDA
HAPPY PANDA NOT SO HAPPY PANDA
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DAY 12 - TUESDAY, APRIL 23, 2019 - Another busy, great day in Copenhagen! Today started out with an early morning walk with some amazing sites, including the Little Mermaid.
We went back to Christiansborg Slot to tour the stables, kitchen, ruins and tower.
Then to the Round Tower Observatory, built by Christian IV for some wonderful views of the city, and tapestry exhibit. And then a little street shopping along Stroget included one of Marci’s favorite clothing designers, Gudrun Sjoden!
The Design Museum was just down the road from our hotel and was just lovely!
And then a lovely dinner along the canal in Nyhavn.
DAY 13, WEDNESDAY, APRIL 24, 2019 - Our last day in Copenhagen - and what a day it was! Today we spent touring the outskirts of Copenhagen, starting in the lovely town of Roskilde, where we visited the lovely Roskilde Domkirke, where 39 Danish monarchs are interred - we were just in time for the bells and organ playing inside - thrilling!
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The Cathedral, started in 1170, was the first Cathedral built of brick. In order to accommodate all of the royal burials, additional chapels were added throughout the centuries, making this cathedral a great representation of the history and evolution of European architecture, from the 10th century to the present, all in one structure. All of the tombs are inside except for one, that of King Frederick IX, who demanded that his tomb be placed outside the cathedral with a view of Roskilde Fjord.
Then over to the Viking Museum, which houses the remains of the 5 Skuldelev Viking ships that were sunk at Skuldelev in the Roskilde Fjord in 1070 to block and protect Roskilde from enemy attack from the sea. These ships, ranging from cargo ships to ships of war, were excavated in 1962 - and others have been found since! The largest is a warship that could carry 70-80 Vikings!
Then over to the Viking Museum, which houses the remains of the 5 Skuldelev Viking ships that were sunk at Skuldelev in the Roskilde Fjord in 1070 to block and protect Roskilde from enemy attack from the sea. These ships, ranging from cargo ships to ships of war, were excavated in 1962 - and others have been found since! The largest is a warship that could carry 70-80 Vikings!
STORM AT SEA ON A VIKING BOAT AT THE VIKING MUSEUM IN ROSKILDE
Then on to the amazing royal residence of Frederiksborg Slot. This castle was built by King Christian IV in the early 17th century and was the largest Renaissance residence in all of Scandinavia. The castle experienced a devastating fire in 1859 but was rebuilt and re-opened in 1882 as the Danish Museum of National History. It houses the largest collection of portrait paintings in all of Denmark - and they are impressive!
Then a quick drive by Fredensborg Slot since we heard the Queen was in, but seems she wasn’t there.
TWO FERRIES PASSING BETWEEN SWEDEN AND DENMARK
HELSINGOR HARBOR
HELSINGOR HARBOR
And then our last stop of the day - the Danish Riviera town of Helsingor, just 2 miles from the Swedish border. Here we visited Kronborg Slot, a castle stronghold that dates back to Krogen, built by Eric VII in 1420, converted to a Renaissance Castle by King Frederick II and then rebuilt in 1629 by King Christian IV after a fire destroyed much of it. Today it is a World UNESCO site - and more importantly, Hamlet’s ‘Castle of Elsinore’. As it turns out, our guide Peter was night watchman here for over 30 years, but disappointingly, never came across Hamlet's ghost.
And then a lovely drive back to Copenhagen. Marci spent the rest of the day at the wonderful National Gallery until they kicked her out - what an amazing collection of Danish artwork!
DAY 14, THURSDAY, APRIL 25, 2019 - RETURN HOME - After an early morning stroll, we left the lovely city of Copenhagen to return home - what a wonderful trip!
DAY 14, THURSDAY, APRIL 25, 2019 - RETURN HOME - After an early morning stroll, we left the lovely city of Copenhagen to return home - what a wonderful trip!